Keum-Boo Technique by Master Goldsmith Charles Lewton-Brain

This Korean technique for applying 24k gold to silver is in fact widely used in various cultures; Japanese, Chinese and in the west historically primarily to adhere gold to iron, steel and copper. I found few historical mentions in the west of application of gold to silver using the same methods used in Asia, though there are plenty of Roman and Greek artifacts which upon reexamination in recent years seem to have been gilded in this manner.

The method can also be used to attach 24k gold to itself, to apply gold foil to other standard and colored gold alloys, palladium, white gold and platinum.

Related Video

Master goldsmith Charles Lewton-Brain lectures about and demonstrates how to make Keum-Boo foil and use the technique. This a method of applying thin sheets of pure gold to silver and other metals. This gives great design and pattern options and raises the value of a silver object at a low cost. See Video

The Korean method is also spelled kum-bu. Several Koreans have given me slightly different versions of the procedure. The version I personally prefer is to take the finished object made in sterling, depletion silver it (bring up the fine silver) by repeated heating, quenching in water and pickling until it is completely white and then heat with a hot-plate or a flame; whichever provides the most even and constant type of heating for the particular object. One may choose to brass brush with soapy water in between picklings. Thin gold foil is placed on the object and a polished steel burnisher tacks it down and then presses it over the surface fixing it permanently in place. The gold will not stick until the correct temperature is reached. If a hot plate is used generally a thickish piece of steel, copper or brass is used to transfer the heat more smoothly to the sheet silver being applied with gold foil. Continue reading

Easy Flat-Back Crystal Earrings

I found this fun and easy project from Facet to make beautiful earrings. You could make easy gifts for friends and family. This would also work to make pendants.

Glue flat-back crystals to brass components for a spark of color

Attaching flat-back crystals to these components is simple — the hard part is knowing when to stop. The colors are so pretty, I always want more. To make sure I don’t overdo it, I always place the crystals on the component first — without gluing — then ask myself, “Can I do without this one (or two or three)?” I usually remove at least a couple and find I have a better design.

SUPPLIES

  • 2 26–31 mm round base metal pendants
  • 2 25 mm connectors
  • 2 6 mm bicone crystals
  • 2 4 mm bicone crystals
  • 4 5 mm flat-back crystals
  • 6 4 mm flat-back crystals
  • 6 3 mm flat-back crystals
  • 2 6 mm blossom bead caps
  • 4 in. (10 cm) 22-gauge half-hard wire
  • pair of earring wires
  • chainnose and roundnose pliers
  • diagonal wire cutters
  • toothpick
  • two-part epoxy

Crystals from Fusion Beads, fusionbeads.com. Check your local bead store for brass pendants by Vintaj or other manufacturers. 

COLOR NOTES

 Fussy peacock pendants

  • 6 mm bicones: Siam
  • 4 mm bicones: amethyst AB
  • 5 mm flat backs (SS20): volcano
  • 4 mm flat backs (SS16): fuchsia
  • 3 mm flat backs (SS12): sun

Asian window pendants

  • 6 mm bicones: blue zircon AB
  • 5 mm rounds: amethyst
  • 4 mm flat backs (SS16): purple velvet
  • 3 mm flat backs (SS12): blue zircon

     

INSTRUCTIONS

Flat back crystal earrings 1

STEP 1
Arrange flat-back crystals on a pendant. Mix two-part epoxy according to the package directions. Use a toothpick to apply a dot of epoxy to each flat back and the pendant. Press together and allow to dry.
Flat back crystal earrings 2

STEP 2
Cut a 1-in. (2.5 cm) piece of wire. Make a plain loop. String a 4 mm bicone crystal. Make a plain loop. Cut a 1-in. (2.5 cm) piece of wire. Make a plain loop. String a 6 mm bicone crystal and a bead cap. Make a plain loop perpen-dicular to the first loop.
Flat back crystal earrings 3

STEP 3
Open the loops of the 4 mm bicone unit. Attach the pendant and a connector. Close the loops.
Flat back crystal earrings 4

STEP 4
Open the loops of the 6 mm bicone unit. Attach the connector and an earring wire. Close the loops. Make a second earring.
Tip!

Source: Flat-back crystal earrings – Facet Jewelry Making

Video: Using A Mandrel, Dapping and Doming Tools

Interweave – Free Metalsmithing Techniques Video: Learn To Use,  Mandrel, Dapping block, and Doming Tools

Metalsmith Essentials: Basic Fabrication with Helen Driggs

Some items used in this video and links to purchase the tools.

Dapping Block

Disk Cutter

Jewelers Saw

Flat Head Hammer

Steel Bench Block

Sheet Metal: Aluminum, Copper, Brass, Silver

Sand Paper


Metalsmith Essentials How to Solder Jewelry Volume 2 DVD

Metalsmith Essentials How to Solder Jewelry Volume 2 DVD

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Metalsmith Essentials Artisan Bails: Handmade Findings to Enhance Handmade Pendants

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